THE OHIO VALLEY-GREAT LAKES ETHNOHISTORY
ARCHIVES: THE MIAMI COLLECTION
It is noted that the following work from the Miami Archives should be read and
considered within the historical context in which it was composed and printed.
The opinions expressed and the language used do not reflect the opinions or
standards of the Glenn A. Black Laboratory of Archaeology, but are, rather,
indicative of thought in that historical moment during which the document was
published.
Croghan's Journal
(May 15, 1765 - Oct. 8, 1765)
(Due to length divided here into two parts)
Croghan, George in: Hutchins
Papers 3, Penn. Hist. Soc.
and in Alvord & Carter,
British Series, Vol. II,
pp. 23-52.
May 15th 1765 I set off from Fort Pitt with two Batteux and encamped at Chartiers Island, in the Ohio three Miles below Fort Pitt.
16 Being joined by the Deputies of the Senecas Shawnese and Delawares that were to accompany me we set off at 7 o'clock in the Morning and at ten o Clock arrivd at the Logs Town an old Settlement of the Shawness about 17 Miles from fort Pitt where we put ashore and viewed the Remains of that Village which was situated on a high Bank on the North Side of the Ohio River a fine fertile (page 24) Country around it. at 11 o Clock we reimbarked and proceeded down the Ohio to the Mouth of Big Beaver Creek about ten Miles below the Logs Town this Creek empties itself between two fine rich Bottoms a Mile wide on each Side from the Banks of the River to the highlands. About a Mile below the Mouth of Beaver Creek we passed an old settlement of the Delawares where the French in 1756 built a Town for that Nation on the North Side of the River some of the Stone Chimney's are yet remaining here the High Lands come close to the River Banks and continue so about 5 Miles after which we passed several spacious Bottoms on each side of the River and came to little Beaver Creek about 15 Miles below big Beaver Creek. A number of Small Rivulets fall into the River on each side. From thence we sailed to Yellow Creek being about 15 Miles from the Last Mentioned Creek here and there the Hills come close to the Banks of the River on each side but when there are Bottoms they are very large and well watered Numbers of Small Rivulets running thro' them falling into the Ohio on both sides. We encamped on the River Bank and find a great Part of the Trees in the Bottoms are covered with Grape Vines. This day we passed by eleven Islands one of which being about Seven Miles Long for the most part of the way we made this Day the Banks of the River are high and steep. The Course of the Ohio from Fort Pitt to the Mouth of Beaver Creek inclins to the North West from thence to the two Creeks partly due west.
17 at 6 o'clock in the Morning we embarked and were delighted with the Prospect of a Fine open Country on each side of the River as we passed down we came to a place called the two Creeks about fifteen Miles from Yellow Creek where we put to Shore. Here the Senecas have a Village on a High Bank of the North Side of the River the Chief of this Village offered me his Service to go with me to the Illianoes which I could not refuse for fear of giving him Offence altho I Had a sufficient Number of Deputies with me already. From thence we proceeded down the River passed many large rich and find Bottoms the High-Lands being at a considerable Distance from the River Banks till we came to the Buffuloe Creek being about ten Miles below the Seneca Village and from Buffuloe Creek we (page 25) proceeded down the River to Flat Meat Creek about thirty Miles. the Face of the Country appears much like what we met with before large rich and well watered bottoms' then succeeded by the Hills pinching close on the River. These Bottoms on the North side that is opposite us appear rather low and consequently subject to Inundations in the Spring of the Year when there never fails to be High Freshes in the Ohio owing to the melting of the Snow. This day we passed By ten fine Island tho the greatest Part of them are Small They lay much higher out of the Water than the main Land and at [sic] Course less subject to be flooded by the Flashes. At Night we encamped near an Indian Village. The general Course of the River from the two Creeks to Flat Meat Creek inclines to the south West.
18th at 6 o'clock A.M. We set of in our Batteaux the Country on both sides the River appears delightfull. the Hills are several Miles from the River Banks and consequently the Bottoms large the Soil Timber and Banks of the River much like those we have before described. About 50 Miles below the Flat Meat Creek we enter the Long Reach where the River runs a straight course for 20 Miles and makes a delightfull Prospect. the Banks continue high the Country on both sides level rich and well watered. At the Lower end of the Reach we encamped. This Day we passed nine Islanes some of which are large and lay High out of the Water.
19th We decamped at six in the morning and sailed to a Place called the three Island being about 15 Miles from our last encampment. here the High Lands come close to the River Banks and the Bottoms for the most Part till we came to Muskingum or Elk River are but narrow. this River empties itself into the Ohio about 15 Miles below the three Islands. the Banks of the River continues steep and the Country is level for Several Miles back from the River the course of the River from Flat Meat Creek to Elk River is about South West and by South. We proceeded down the river about 15 Miles to the Mouth of the Little Gonhawa River with Little or no Alteration in the face of the Country. here we encamped in a Fine Rich Bottom after having passed 14 Islands some of them Large and mostly lying high out of the Water. here Buffuloes Bears Turkeys (page 26) with all other kind of Wild Game are extreamly plenty. A good Hunter without much Fatigue to himself could here supply daily one Hundred Men with meat. the Course of the Ohio from Elk River to little Shenhawa is about South.
20th At 6 in the Morning we embarked in our Boats and proceeded down to the Mouth of Hochocken or Battle River where we ware Oblidge to encamp having a Stronghead Wind against us. we made but 20 Miles this Day and passed by five very fine Islands the Country the Whole way being rich and level with High and steep Banks to the River. From here I dispatched an Indian to the Plains of Scioto with a Letter to the French Traders from the Illinnois residing there among the Shawnese requireing them to come and join me at the Mouth of Scioto in Order to proceed with me to their own Country and take the Oaths of Allegiance to his Britanick Majesty as they ware now become his Subjects and had no Right to Trade there without License. At the same Time I sent Messages to the Shawnesse Indians to oblidge the French to come to me in a case of Refusall.
21st We embarked at Half past 8 o Clock in the Morning and sailed to a place called the Big Bend about 35 Miles below Battle River. the Course of the Ohio from little Conhawa River to the Big Bend is about South West and by South. The Country hereabouts abounds with Buffulose, Bears Deer and all sorts of Wild Game in such plenty that we Killed out of our Boats as much as we wanted. We proceeded down the River to the Buffuloe Bottom about ten Miles from the Beginning of the Big Bend where we encamped; the Country on both Sides the River much the Same as we passed the Day Before. This Day we passed nine Islands all liyin [sic] high out of the Water.
22nd at Half an Hour past 5 o Clock set off and sailed to a place called the Allum Hill so called from the great Quantity of that Mineral found there by the Indians; this place lays' about ten Miles below Buffuloe Bottom: Thence we sailed to the Mouth of Great Conhawa River being ten Miles from the Allum Hill. The Course of the River from the Great Bend to this Place is mostly West. From (page 27) hence we proceeded down to Little Guyondat River where we encamped about 30 Miles from Great Conhawa; the Country still find and level the Banks of the River High, with abundance of Creeks and Rivulets falling in to it. This Day we passed 6 fine Islands in the Evening one of our Indians discovered three Cherokee near our encampment which oblidged our Indians to keep out a good Guard the First Part of the Night. our party being pretty Strong I imagine the Cherokees were affraid to Attack us and so ran off.
23 Decamped bout 5 in the Morning and arrived at Big Guyondatt 20 miles from our last Encampment. the Country as Yesterday from hence we proceeded down to Sandy River being 20 Miles Farther: thence we proceeded to the Mouth of Scioto about 40 Miles from the last mentioned River the [Blank in MS.] The General Course of the River from great Cunhawa to this Place inclines to the Southwest. The Soil rich the Country level and the Banks of the River High. the soil on the Banks of Scioto for a vast Distance up the Country is prodigious rich the Bottoms very wide and in the Spring of the year my of them are Flooded so that the River appears to be two or three Miles wide. Bears Deer Turkeys and most Sorts of Wild Game are very Plenty on the Banks of this river on the Ohio just below the Mouth of Scioto on a High Bank on the South side near forty Feet formerly Stood the Shawnesse Town called the Lower Town which was all carried away except three or Four Houses by a great Flood in the Scioto. I was in the Town at the Time tho the Banks of the Ohio were so high. The Water was nine Feet on the Top which oblidged the whole Town to take to their Cannoes and move with their Effects to the Hills. The Shawness afterwards built their Town on the opposite [side] of the River our side which during the French War they abandoned for fear of the Virginians and removd to the Plains on Scioto. The Ohio is about 100 yards wider here than at Fort Pitt which is but a Small Augmentation considering [sic] the great Number of Rivers and Creeks that fall into it during the Couse of 420 Miles and as it deepens but very little (page 28) I immagin the Waters Sink tho there is no visible appearace [sic] of it all the Lands on Scioto River as well as the Bottoms on the Ohio are too rich for any thing but Flax Hemp and Indian Corn.
24th 25th 26th Stayed at the Mouth of Scioto waiting for the Shawnesse and French Traders who arrived here on the Evening of the 26th in consequnce [sic] of the Message I sent them from Hachocken or Battle Creek.
27th The Indians requested me to stay this Day which I could not refuss [sic].
28th We set of passing down the Ohio. The Country on both sides the River level. the Banks continue high. this Day we came 60 Miles passed no Islands. the River being wider and deeper we drove all Night.
29th We came to the Little Maim River having proceeded 60 Miles Last Night.
30th We passed the great Maim River about 30 Miles from the Little River of that Name and in the Evening arrived at the Place where the Elephants Bones are found where we encamped intending to take a View of the Place Next Morning. This Day we came about 70 Miles. the Country on both sides level and rich Bottoms well wartered [sic].
31st Earley in the Morning we went to the great Lick where these Bones only are found about 4 Miles from the River On the South East Side. in our Way we passed thro' a fine timbered clear Wood, we came into a large road which the Buffuloes have beaten Spacious, enough for two Waggons to go a Brest and leading straight into the Lick. It appears there are vast Quantities of these Bones lying five or six Feet under ground which we discoverd in the Bank at the Edge of the lick. We found here two Tusks about 6 Feet long we carried one with some Other Bones to our Boat and sett off. This day we proceeded down the River about 80 Miles Thro a Country much the same as already described Since We passed the Scioto, In this Days Journey we passed the Mouth of the River Kentucky or Hostens River.
(page 29) June 1st we arrived within a Miles of the Falls of the Ohio where we encamped after coming about 5 Miles this Day.
June 2nd Earley in the Morning we embarked and passed the Falls the River being very low we were oblidged to Lighten our Boats and pass on the North Side of a little Island which Lays in the middle of the River. in general what is called the Falls here is no more than rapids and in the Least Fresh a Batteau of any Size may come and go on each side without any Risque. This Day we proceeded 60 Miles in the Course of which we passed Pidgeon River. The Country pretty High on each side the River Ohio.
3th [sic] in the fore part of This Days Course we passed high Lands: about midday we came to a fine flat and level Country called by the Indians low Lands. no Hilles to be seen. we came about 80 Miles this Day and encamped.
4th we came to a place called the 5 Islands. these Islands are very long and Succeed one another in a Chain, the Country still flat and level the Soil exceedingly rich and well watered. the high Lands are at least fifty Miles from the Banks of the Ohio. In this Days course we proceeded about 90 Miles the Current being very strong.
5th Having passed the 5 Islands we came to a Place called the Civil River. Came about 40 Miles this Day. the Country the Same as of yesterday.
6th We arrived at the Mouth of the Caubache where we found a Brest Work errected supposed to be done by the Indians. the mouth of this River is about 200 yards wide and in its Course runs thro one of the finest Countries in the world the Lands being exceedingly rich and well watered. here hemp might be raised in immense Quantities: all the Bottoms and almost the Whole Country abounds with great Plenty of red and White Mulberry Trees. These Trees are to be found in great Plenty in all places between the Mouth of Scioto and the Caubache. The Soil of the Latter affords this Tree in plenty as far as Cauntonan and Some few on the Miames River: Several Large fine Islands lie in the Ohio opposite the Mouth of the Caubache the Banks (page 30) of which are high and consequently free from Inundations. hence we proceeded down the River about 6 Miles to encamp as I judged some Indians were sent to way lay us and came to a place called the Old Shawnesse Village some of that Nation having formerly lived there in this Days proceeding we came about 76 Miles. The General Course of the Ohio from Scioto to this Place is South West.
7th We Stayed here and dispatched two Indians to the Iillienois by land with Letters to Ld Frazer an English Officer who had been sent there from Fort Pitt & Monsr St Ange the French Commanding Officer at Fort Chartres and some speeches to the Indians there letting them know of my arrival here. That Peace was made betwen us and the Six Nations Delawares and Shawness and of my having a Number of Deputies of those Nations along with me to conclude matters with them also on my arrival there. this Day one of my men went into the Woods and lost himselfe.
8th June at Day Break we were attacked by a Party of Indians consisting of Eighty Warriors of the Kacapers and Musquatimes who Killed two of my men & three Indians wounded myselfe and all the rest of my party Except two White Men and one Indian then made myselfe and all the White men Prisoners plundering us of every Thing we had. A Deputy of the Shawnesse who was Shot thro the Thigh having concealed himself in the Woods for a few Minuets [sic][ after he was Wounded not then Knowing but they were Southern Indians who are always at war with the Northward Indians: after discovering what Nation they were he came up to them and made a very bold speech telling them that the Whole Northward Indians would join in taking Revenge for the Insult and murder of their People this alarmed these [sic] Indians very much they began excusing themselves saying their Fathers the French had spirited them up telling them the Inglish were coming with a body of Southern Indians to take their Country from them and inslave them. that it was this that induced them to commit this Outrage after having divided the plunder they left great Part of the heaviest Effects Behind not being able to carry them they sett of with us to their Village at (page 31) Cautonan in a great Hurry being in dread of a Pursuit from a large Party of Indians they suspected were coming after me; Our Course was thro a thick Woody Country crossing a great many Swamps Morasses and Beaver Ponds. we traveled this Day about 42 Miles.
9th An Hour before Day we sett out on our March passed thro thick Woods some high lands and small Savannahs badly watered traveled this Day about 30 Miles.
10th We sett out very Early in the Morning and marched thro a high Country extreamly well timbered for three hours. then came to a Branch of the Cuabache which we crossed. the remainder of this Day we traveled thro fine rich Bottoms over grown with Reeds which make the finest Pasture in the World. the Young reads being preferable to Sheaft Oats. here is great plenty of Wild game of all kinds. Came this Day about 28 or 30 Miles.
11th at Day Break we sett off making our way thro a thin Woodland intercepted with Savannahs: I Suffered extreamly by Reason of the excessive Heat of the Weather and Scarcity of water the little Runs and springs being dried up. Traveled this Day about 30 Miles.
13th About an Hour before Day we set out traveling thro such Bottoms as of Yesterday and some large Meadowes where no Trees for several Miles are to bee seen: Buffuloes Deers and Bears are here in great Plenty. we traveled about 26 Miles this Day.
14th The Country we traveled thro this Day appears the Same as described Yesterday excepting this afternoons Journey thro Woodlands to cut of a Bend of the River. Came about 27 Miles this Day.
15th We set out very earley and about one o Clock came to the Caubache within 6 or 7 Miles of Post Vincent on my arrival there I found a Village of about 80 or 90 French Families settled on the East Side of this River being one of the finest Situations that can (page 32) be found. the Country is level and clear and the Soil very rich producing Wheat and Tobacco. I think the latter preferable to that of Maryland or Virginia. The French Inhabitants hereabouts are an idle lazy people a parcel of Renegadoes from Canada and are much worse than Indians. They took a secreet Pleasure at our Misfortunes and the moment we arrived they came to the Indians exchanging Trifles for their valuable plunder: As the Savages took from me a considerable Quantity of Gold and Silver in Specie the French Traders extorted 10 halfe Johannes from them for one Pound of Vermillion. There is likewise an Indian Village of the Pyankeshaws who were very much displeased with the Party that took me telling them our and your Chiefs are gone to make peace and you have begun a War for which our Women and Children will have Reason to Cry. From this Post the Indians permitted me to write to the Commander at Fort Charters but would not permit me to write to any body else. This I suppose was a preCaution of the French least their Villany should be perceived too soon: altho the Indians had given me permission to write to Sir Wm Johnson and Fort Pitt on our March before I arrived at this Place but immediately after our arrival they had a private Council with the French in which the Indians urged as they afterwards informed me that as the French had engaged them in so bad an affair which was likely to begin a New War on their Nation they now expected a Proof of their Promise and Assistance. then delivered the French a Scalp and Part of the Plunder and wanted to deliver some presents to the Pyankeshaws but they refused to accept of any and declared they would not be concerned in the affair. This last information I got from the Pyankeshaws as I had been Well acquainted with them several years before this Time. Post Vincent is a place of great consequence for Trade being a fine hunting Country all along the Cuabache and too far for the Indians which reside hereabouts to go either to the Iillioneis or elsewhere to fetch their Necessaries.
16th June We were oblidged to stay here to get some little apparel made up for us and to buy some Horses for our Journey to Caua- (page 33) tonan promissing Payment at De Troit for we could not procure Horses from the French for Hire tho we were greatly fatigued and our spirits much exhausted in our late March they would lend us no assistance.
17th about Midday we set out travelling the first five Miles thro a fine clear wood. we traveled 10 Miles this Day and encamped in a large beautiful well watered meadow.
18th & 19th we traveled thro a prodigious large Meadow called the Pyankeshas hunting ground. here is no wood to be seen and the Country appears like an Ocean. the ground is exceedingly rich and partly over grown with wild Hemp; The Land well watered and full of Buffuloes Deer Bears and all Kind of Wild Game.
20th & 21st We passed thro some very large Meadows part of which belong to the Pyankeshaws on Vermillion River. the Country and Soil much the same as that we travelled over for these three Days' past. wild Hemp grows here in Abundance. the Game very plenty at any Time in Halfe an Hour we could Kill as much as we wanted.
22nd We passed thro' a part of the same Meadows as mentioned yesterday then came to a High Woodland and arrived at Vermillion River so called from a Fine red Earth found here by the Indians with which they paint themselves. About halfe a Mile from the place where we crossed this [sic] River there is a Village of Pyankeshaws distinguished by the Addition of the name of the River: We travelled then about three Hours thro a fine clear high woody Country but a deep and rich soil then came to a large Meadow where we encamped.
23rd Earley in the Morning we sett out thro a fine Meadow then some clear Woods. in the afternoon came into a very large Bottom on the Cuabache within about 6 Miles of Ouiatanon. here I met several Chiefs to the Kicapoos and Musquatimes who spoke to their Young Men that had taken us and reprimanded them severely for What they had done to me after Which they returned to their Village and delivered us all to their Chiefs. the Distance from Post Vincent to Ouaitonan is 210 Miles. this Place is situated on the Cuabache; about 14 French Families are living in the Fort which Stands on the North Side of the River: The Kicapoos & Musquatimes whose Warriors had
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