THE OHIO VALLEY-GREAT LAKES ETHNOHISTORY
ARCHIVES: THE MIAMI COLLECTION
It is noted that the following work from the Miami Archives should be read and
considered within the historical context in which it was composed and printed.
The opinions expressed and the language used do not reflect the opinions or
standards of the Glenn A. Black Laboratory of Archaeology, but are, rather,
indicative of thought in that historical moment during which the document was
published.
Account of the Discovery of the
River Mississippi
which M. de La Salle made in 1682, and of
his Return to Quebec
(bet. 1681 and 1682), de la Salle, Nicholas, I-1-588-611. I-86.
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(page 587) XX. Account set forth by the young Nicholas de La
Salle of the enterprise of Robert Cavalier during the year 1682. Cavalier
descends the Mississippi to its mouth and ascends again up to Quebec, after
having visited various nations and taken possession of the country in the name
of the King of France.
(page 588) 1. This Nicholas de La Salle is the same man that discharged the duties of Commissarie in the first settlements of Louisiana, from 1701 to 1709. He had no bond of relationship with the leader of the enterprise, being, if I am not mistaken, the son of a Premier Commis de la Marine who became in 1687 Commissarie General of the galleys.
The author of the manuscript collection from which this narrative has been taken put at the head of it this note: "I wrote this narrative in 1685; it was given to me by the young De La Salle."
(page 590). . .
In the Lake of the Hurons there are many islands, including one thirty leagues long. There is a village of the Outaouais. There is Indian corn there, as throughout all these lands. From that village of Missilimakinak, eighty leagues. From the Lake of the hurons we went into the Lake of the Illinois. From that lake, by making a portage of two leagues, or another of one league, you get to the River of Teatiqui, which joins the River of the Illinois, which goes into the Mississippi at the 34th degree of latitude. M. de La Salle took with him twenty-two Frenchmen and a Recollet named Father Zenobe. He had also eighteen Indians of the Loup tribe, who live near to the English. They consented to follow him, for a hundred beaver skins each, to hunt and give the Frenchmen half of their spoils. These eighteen Indians had with them seven women, who also made this journey.
M. de La Salle stayed twelve days at the junction of the River of the Illinois with the Mississippi, because the stream was full of floating ice. During that time the Indians made some elm-bark canoes, for they had left theirs on the Lake of the Illinois, and had come on foot thus far. That was in December, 1681.
At last we went down the Mississippi. On the first day we encamped six leagues down on the right side, near to the mouth of a river which falls into the Mississippi and makes it very thick and muddy. It is called the River of the Missouris. This river comes from the north-west. According to what the Indians say, there are very many people along its course. The Panis live on this river, at a great distance from its outfall.
Next day, in going down the river, we found a village called Tamaroa seven leagues further on, on the left bank. The inhabitants had gone hunting. The Frenchmen left knives and glass (page 591) beads hanging on a pole, to let the Indians know that their friends had passed that way. We went and encamped two leagues further on, on the right bank. We remained there two days. We killed seven oxen, four roebucks and a number of turkeys, swans and bustards. The country is beautiful. On the side of the river there were walnut trees, plum trees, oaks and maples, or there are small hills from time to time, and fine tall grass like that of our meadows. It was a little cold, but there was no snow or ice.
On the third day we encamped about ten leagues from there, in a very flat country which was under water when the river overflowed.
The next day we encamped on the left bank. At that place the river is very narrow, being shut in between two mountains, and in the middle there is a large rock which forms an island. We stayed there three days, for hunting. The country is full of rocks, but beyond them it is a beautiful country.
On the fourth day we set out and went to encamp on the left side, fourteen leagues from there. During the whole of this day mountains extended right and left along the river, and on the edge of the river were a large number of reeds.
In the evening of the next day, an hour before sundown, when we had gone eleven leagues, we found on the left the outfall of the River of Saint Louis, on Ouabache, or Chicagoua. This river, which comes from the country of the Iroquois, had made us think that by following its course one might find a way to La Chine. We went on another league and encamped on the right, opposite to the outfall of the Ouabache.
The Cicaca or Chicacha are on the south of this river, a (page 592) good distance from its outfall. The country where we encamped was flat, and filled with great woods, of elms and other similar trees.
Next day, when we had gone six leagues, we saw hills on the left, which rose to a greater height as they retreated from the river. The earth here is red, as appears in the ravines of these hills. We encamped five leagues further in, on the left, after passing two islands; the second is one league in circumference; the country as before.
The next day, in order to find high ground for hunting, we made twenty leagues, because the wind was favourable. We encamped on the left, at a place where the river makes a great bend, in front of an island one league long and three-quarters broad. We stayed there a day on account of the rain and a contrary wind. For want of provisions, we had to fast.
The second day we set out, fine weather having come; and when we had travelled seven leagues, M. de Tonty's canoe split in passing over a tree which was in the water and was not seen,- so muddy is the stream. After mending the canoe we went on our way; and when we had gone five leagues, with hills always on the left, we encamped. The Loups went hunting and brought in seven roebucks, which were of great service. We had been fasting for a fortnight for want of provisions. Next day the Frenchmen went hunting with the Loups. A Frenchman named Prudhomme, an armourer, lost his way. They searched for him for ten days, and at last saw him coming back on the river, upon a piece of wood which he had pushed into the stream. M. de La Salle had a redoubt made of wood, for safety's sake, when they were looking (page 593) for the Frenchman. He called this fort, Fort Prudhomme. While seeking him they discovered the trails of some Indians, beaten paths, and even a hut full of Indians, who took to flight. One day, the Sieur Barbier brought in two of them: They said that they were Chicacha. We gave them presents.
Next day M. de Tonty went and encamped ten leagues away, at the outfall of a small river which the Chicachas call Chicacha. M. de La Salle, and the Loups, remained to hunt. They killed eighteen roebucks; and the next day he came and joined M. de Tonty, who had seen, near the little river, small hills covered with trees, such as laurels, mulberry-trees and oaks.
The following day, we all encamped together twelve leagues from there, to the right. There are hills there. We all stayed a day for hunting. We killed a very powerful bear. One of the two Chicachas wanted to stay with the Frenchmen, although he was told that he might go away. The other had been sent back to his people immediately after his capture, with presents, to learn whether the Frenchman who was lost was not with them, and the Chicacha did not come back. But the other one, who was a small man, rather old but very resolute, wished to follow the Frenchmen.
Next day we encamped eight leagues away, on the right. The country is flooded when the river overflows.
On the following day, after going six leagues, in a thick fog, we heard shouts on the right. The Chicacha said that it was a village of the Akansa, on the bank of the river. M. de La Salle went to the other side of the river to entrench himself in case of an attack. The akansa thought it was their enemies. (page 594) They sent away their women and children. Just then the fog cleared, and a canoe of the akansa came within a bowshot of the French. They shot an arrow. If we had also shot one at them, it would have been a sign that we wished for war; but seeing that we did not shoot at them, they went to tell them so at their village, and that we were men of peace. The chief sent another canoe, with six men and the calumet. They came into the entrenchment and offered it to M. de La Salle and all the others, to smoke; and they made signs that we were to go to their village. We were very well received. They made a feast. Next day they danced the calumet. To dance the calumet, they all come to the square, especially the warriors, and the chiefs set up poles all round, as if they wanted to dry some linen, arranging upon them all the presents they wish to give. They brought two calumets, with feathers of all colours, and red stone vessels full of tobacco. They were given to the chiefs who were in the middle of the square. These chiefs and the warriors have gourds filled with pebbles and two drums. The latter are earthenware pots covered with a dressed skin. The chief began a song, which they accompanied by the rattle of their gourds. When those had finished, others began the same thing again. Then those who had done brave deeds went and struck with a tomahawk a stake fixed in the middle of the square; and when they had related their feats, they gave presents to M. de La Salle, in whose honour they made the feast. If any one on striking the stake told falsehoods, the one who knew it would go and wipe the stake with a skin and say that he was wiping off the lie.
While that was going on the chiefs smoke the calumet and (page 595) have it carried all round of everybody to smoke. M. de La Salle received fifty or sixty oxhides. The Frenchmen, except M. de La Salle, went and struck upon the stake, and told of their valour, and made their presents with what M. de La Salle had given them for that purpose.
The Akansa said that they had four villages, and they showed us by signs where they were. We found an Illinois slave among them, who served as an interpreter. He said that they called themselves Akansa. They are quite naked, like all the other tribes. They made a present to the Frenchmen of maize, beans and a number of dried fruits, such as medlars, plums, and grapes in water, and give it you to drink. We remained with them for three days. We set up the arms of the King there. We chanted the Te Deum, and fired three volleys. They are good people, who do not know how to do enough for the French.
The country is good, rather high, full of large trees such as elms, peach trees, plum trees, mulberry trees, etc., whose names we do not know. It was in the month of March that this took place; the air had a sweet smell. The peach trees were in bloom.
We left of the fourth day. The Akansa came to take the Frenchmen to the waterside, passing their hands over their bodies. That is their caress. They told them to take courage. They gave them two of their men to lead them to their allies. They did not harm the Chicacha, although the two tribes were at war. We went about eight leagues, and on the left found the Akansa village. They were all hunting. We went six leagues further and arrived at the river called Akansa. There was another (page 596) village of the Akansa there, where we slept. They received the French very well, and begged them to stay for the calumet dance; but we thanked them, and set off early the next day.
The next day we went only four leagues on account of a high wind from the south which compelled us to encamp, on the left, at a place which is flooded. There were a number of small aspen trees. The wind fell; and about six o'clock on an island one league long and half a league wide, a piece of land which is swampy and grows small aspen trees. We left at about ten o'clock in the morning. After going about seven leagues, we encamped towards six o'clock in the evening on a very fine island, flat, two leagues long and half a league broad, full of mulberry trees, laurels and other big trees. We made an abattis of wood around us, for fear of being surprised by the Indians.
The next day we left at five o'clock in the morning. After going about five leagues we killed two roebucks which were crossing the river. We landed, and skinned them; then, re-embarking, we went on four leagues further. The two Akansa wanted us to go to the left (the river there forms three very large islands), to go and make war on the Tonica, their enemies, who have a village there. But M. de La Salle would not go in that direction for he did not wish to make war on anyone whomsoever. The two Akansa said that on this left branch of the Mississippi there were still more tribes. We went four leagues further the same day on the right branch of the Mississippi. We camped on the side of the hills, on the left. We could not go hunting, the country being flooded between the river and the hills.
On the fourth day we left; and when we had gone three leagues, we were obliged to throw out some provisions, to lighten the boats. Next day M. de La Salle with five men, in the best canoe, went on in advance.
The other Frenchmen, after six days rowing, met an Akansa and a Taensa who were returning from war. The Akansa embarked with them; and as the river was flooding the lands, he showed them a way which cut off twenty leagues which they would have to go if they followed the windings of the river. M. de La Salle, who had gone the ordinary way, arrived after the others and encamped with them. On the following day he again went in advance. The others, after six days, reached the first village of the Akansa. M. de La Salle had left it the day before; they remained there one day. The Akansa feasted the Frenchmen on dogs, saying that they were true warriors to have gone so far without being killed.
The second day we went to the middle village on the right bank going up; a great feast was made, with a bear and an ox, (page 610) and we received a thousand kindnesses.
On the following day we reached the other village of the Akansa, they made us a great feast of dogs; and we took the baggage which had been left there when going down, and two of the four Loups who had remained there; the other two stayed, not wishing to leave the country until they had killed some men.
After five days rowing, we found a letter on the end of a stick, on a sandy headland, saying that M. de La Salle was ill.
We found him, two days later, still very ill. He had been near dying. He sent M. de Tonty on, with five others, to the Miamis, for some goods which he had concealed in the sand. Seven or eight days afterwards M. de La Salle left with the other Frenchmen. After going five leagues, they encamped on the right, and remained there two days.
After fifteen days' journey we got to the Tamaroa and slept there. They wished to dance the calumet. M. de La Salle went to the village; they offered him a mat to sit upon, and gave him two Pani slaves, a woman and a young boy; he gave them two guns.
Two days later we reached the river of the Illinois and went up it; there we found a number of bustards, swans and ducks which were moulting, and killed them with a stick. We shot a great many oxen, roebucks and turkeys. It was fifteen days after leaving the Tamaroa when we arrived at Fort Creve-Coeur, on a small lake called Pimiteoui; we found everything destroyed and the bark burnt.
We went to the village of the Illinois; there was no one there, it was the 15th of July 1682.
M. de La Salle left eight Frenchmen at Fort Creve-Coeur(see fn. 1) and (page 611) went by land to the Lake of the Illinois. From there, by canoe, to the Miamis; from there to Michilimakinak it is a hundred and twenty leagues by land. He sent back M. de Tonty with nine Frenchmen to Creve-Coeur, to join the others. M. de la Salle also arrived there after some time; he made the Frenchmen strike their camp and took them opposite the place where the village of the Illinois was. They killed a number of oxen and stags there, which they smoked for the winter. He had a wooden fort built, on a rock on the edge of the River of the Illinois, opposite to their village; and on the other side of the river he had maize sown. The Illinois, who had been beaten by the Iroquois, came back. M. de La Salle caused an alliance to be made by the Illinois with the Miamis, the Chaouanons and the Mascoutins, for the purpose of helping one another against the Iroquois. When that was done, M. de La Salle set out for Quebec and France, taking with him the young M. de La Salle. They arrived at Quebec on the 13th of November, 1682, and at La Rochelle on the 17th of January, 1683.
(We must read, beyond all doubt, 1683 and
1684. The memorial addressed to the King about 1720 by the Abbe Jean Cavelier
says that his brother arrived at Versailles in the month of December 1683. It
is certain that M. de La Barre, Governor of New France, had not yet seen him on
the 4th of November in the latter year, the date on which he wrote very
strongly and with great malevolence against the explorer.)
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1 From Fort Creve-Coeur to the Miamis, by land, 100 leagues; from the Maskoutins to Creve-Coeur, 150 leagues; from Michilimakinak to the Illinois, 120 leagues.
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